Thursday, February 20, 2014

Drafting Patterns....

I've been in this project for about a month now, I'm catching everyone up on the process so far.
So all I was given the from the start was image of the 1800 German Couple, that is it. I just want to emphasise that, because as I begun my research I found many Blogs of people how have also made garments of this time period, and most of them brought or used some sort of commercial historical patterns. None of them seemed to draft the pattern from scratch using just slopers, I'm mostly talking about the male who's is drafted, the female is going to be draped. Where I didn't have this, while I could have easily found a coat or shirt pattern that could be easy to alter to the image, I made a decide to make this from scratch as much as I could.

I've been given two actor Maggie and Zach to fit each costume to. I had to take all there measurements myself so if something is off its my doing. Now I'm starting drafting the male, my professor Howard somehow has an unopened vest pattern from like 1993 in his office he gives to me to work with. That is after I had already successfully created a sloper for Zach modifying a basic fit pattern. The original patten one I used was the Butterick 5746 its just a basic fit pattern for women in a size 12. And Zach is small a 31" waist and 38" chest, so a women's size 12 actually is about his size. So I modified the pattern for a man and too Zach size. But Howard said it looked to small, so he skipped to his office and came out with his vest pattern that also has pants. He was soo excited, the vest was in Zach size but his size in a 1993 style vest. To make Howard happy I used that pattern and modified to Zach size. I Cut along the size 38-40 lines, but what Howard didn't realise is that in 1993 a size 38-40 final measurements of a vest was actually about 46-48. I ended up having to take out about 10" after I took out seam allowance. I was basically just creating a whole new pattern from scratch, but I did it I was that base sloper to create the waistcoat, tailcoat, and coat patterns. And it actually works, once I was finished they looked nothing like that 1993 vest pattern.

For the sleeves I found a historical pattern in stock that actually was for a jacket with similar seams so I just used that, the only problem is its for a size 46 which is way to big. I can already tell they are going to have to be completely redone. The pants I decided not to use the one in the same vest pattern, since they are baggy with a fully gathered wait band, which is just to annoying to deal with. I found a historical pants pattern the were just basic pants in Zach size. They aren't as tight and taper as I need them to be, my pants are also fall fronts I had to create that, which once I looked at my research I realised my pattern is actually the difficult or different from normal pants. I didn't worry about the fit around the leg that much, just the the wait, inseam, and outseams were right, because the are so form fitting I'm just going to pin around his leg on the mock up to get the right shape. I already have to fabric for the pants that also magically came from Howard's abyss of an office. I'm excite to get that point with the real fabrics but thats still a long way away.

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