Sunday, February 23, 2014

Some lovely pants

I'm finishing up all the mocks ups for the male, there is soooooo some piece. I don't know why Howard chose the only image of a male that has this weird extra coat. I like I keep trying to find some information on what its purpose is or if anyone else had one but I just can't, is dude just had his own style I guess. Its not that the coat is difficult its just another added piece to the shirt, waistcoat, tailcoat, and trousers. Not to mention that each pattern has at least 4 or 6 different piece to it, everything but the pants and vest, has a different sleeve, different collar or different lapel. The seams on the coat and tailcoat are the same, which makes it a little easier. But the lapels, collar sleeves, and cut of the two are different. But as far as constructing a mock up the quicks to sew and cut out has been the vest, tailcoat coat.

You would think the shirt would be, it just takes a lot of time because there is so many bits that need to be gathered, plus there is a standing collar, cuffs and plackets. I also hate how I did the pattern for the shirt, in my research I found that shirts back then were just rectangles with gussets in the neckline and armseye. They were a big fan of gussets back then, even the women's short stays at the time got there shape from jus gusset. The thing I really want to change on the shirts is the sleeves, the gathering at the neckline and the shoulder seams. I already started to alter the basic shapes of the patterns, if I had the time I would totally make another mock up shirt, but I don't. Every day this week I have been in the shop till midnight working. One of the reason it keeps taking so long is whenever I start to put something together I have to stop and stare at it on the dressform and readjust it to make sure everything is going together right. 

Monday was the worst I was there till 12:30am I had packed everything up and got to the door to leave and saw it was snowing out. And I was not dressed for snow, I seriously had a moment where I seriously thought about just staying in the shop all night. I could have I had my books for the next day and change of clothes and a shower and food. It would have been totally do able especially since I would have to be back for my 9am class the next day. But I decided to brave the snow and it took me like 30 minutes to get home and I had to park in Narnia again this week.

But I did get alot done, I finally got the pants mocked up. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to do these fall front pants, I've seen a lot of different version. I currently have plackets on the slits where it falls, but I'm think of may changing that to a facing. The challenge with these is in the rendering you can not see any buttons or closures. Like I know the concept and shape of how they work now its just choosing which is the best way to actually do it. So for now they are just stitched to together for the fitting. The pants are going to need to be taken on the leg alot. The pattern I based them off of where a lot loser in the leg and crotch then these pants need to be.  I already have to actually fabric, as I've mentioned before, and they have stretch to them which is great.

I also got to added all the collars onto the coats they look as good now, I really can't wait to fit them on Zach. I'm just dreading those sleeves, because I know they are wayyyyy to big. I already took the pattern down like 4" in size which should help alot. 

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